Holy Grail Denim

A Rose Bowl score that has nothing to do with Levi's.

Two weekends ago at the Rose Bowl, I stumbled upon the holy grail of vintage denim. And no, I’m not talking about Levis.

The jean I’m talking about has been in production since the early 1900s and was originally made for the U.S. Navy. The style is cut more like a trouser, in drapey, lightweight denim which means they are not only one of the most comfortable jeans to wear, but also one of the most flattering- which is exactly why they’ve become my holy grail.

Holy Grail Denim

I’ve been collecting vintage U.S. Navy dungarees for the last few years, but it wasn’t until my most recent find that I finally cracked the code on the perfect combination of fit, details, and wash to look for.

I haven’t taken them off in the last two weeks so it only feels right to share everything I know about finding my holy grail vintage denim.

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The Beauty is in the Details

U.S.N. Dungarees have been in production since the early 1900s when sailor’s uniforms transitioned from wool to denim for the first time. What makes these jeans so special is the material, the details, and the unique silhouette all rooted in utility and practicality for life on a ship.

The Fabric

The reason why I love this style of denim in my wardrobe above all else is the fabric. USN Dungarees were cut in a ultra light 10oz, (100% cotton) denim (your typical vintage Levis are about 14oz for comparison). The 1x1 weave is also atypical to most denim which allows the pant to fall and drape more like a trouser than a typical 3x1 weave (the weave of a classic Levi’s) which is a more rugged and sturdy.

Why is this important? The jean feels like a dream to wear- the drape of the jean makes for a flattering silhouette and the weight of the material makes it feel extremely comfortable and easy. There is no other denim in my closet that fills this gap- extremely comfortable and extremely flattering.

This is a jean so comfortable you can wear on the couch without thinking twice.

The Silhouette

The silhouette of USN dungarees was cut with intention- the bell shape at the opening of the jean allows for the sailor to easily roll up his jean above his knees when he was cleaning the deck of the ship (brilliant!). This silhouette also happens to be flattering on just about every body type adding to the allure of the style.

The Details

One of the most interesting details of early versions of the jean is that most legs were cut from a single piece of fabric without a side seam. The lore is that the jeans were cut without a side seam so sailors could use them as a flotation device if they had to abandon ship- less seams meant less air could escape.

Holy grail versions of the style will have the large patch pockets wrap around the high hip of the jean. An extremely flattering and chic detail that isn’t possible with side seams. The large patch pockets, a defining characteristic of the dungaree, were cut large to hold tools and easy access.

Early models of the dungaree were made with a button fly and later models with a zip. I have both and in this particular style, I prefer the zip for a cleaner silhouette.

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The Fit

The front rise is very long- approximately 13” which means is you have the option of wearing these jeans a few different ways- you can find a pair to fit you super high waisted or wear them more relaxed for a cooler attitude. I own these dungarees from super fitted to super relaxed and they look cool no matter how you prefer your fit.

The Fit Formula

My fit recommendations are based on my holy grail dungaree. What’s great about these jeans is you can take them to a tailor and easily get them tailored to your exact specifications (much easier than a vintage Levis since there are less components).

Holy Grail Specs- (High Waisted + Relaxed Specs my waist is 28.5”) Waist-31,” Hip-40”, Rise-13”, Inseam- 31”, Leg Opening- 12”

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A Modern Icon

Since the 1960s, U.S. Navy dungarees transformed from a men’s uniform into a women’s wardrobe staple. By the 70s, style icons like Brigitte Bardot and Jane Birkin had cemented them as the icon they are today.

Throughout the years countless brands have made their own interpretation of the icon. If I had to shop new, I’d buy these- since they honor the seamless side detail that I love so much. These are also nice.

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How to Wear it

I’ve been wearing these day and night for the last two weeks. There are endless ways to style this jean. Here are a few ways I’ve been wearing it.

Look No 1. Boys White Tee + striped work shirt + vintage LL Bean bag. Look No 2. Vintage Rib Tank + Blazer from this post. Look No 3. Vintage Dress Shirt from this post + vintage tee (more on this on Sunday!). Look No 4. Vintage Sweatshirt and another ( I love wearing Ivy League merch ironically as an FIT grad).

Look No 5. Vintage Denim Lee Jacket. Look No 6. White Shirt I made for myself years ago. This silk one for $36 is insane. Look No 7. Vintage Tuxedo Shirt from this post + vintage vest. Look No 8. Vintage Little Black Jacket from this post.

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The Edit

For paid subscribers, I curated an edit of the best vintage USN dungarees I could find on the internet (starting at $64!). I edited for wash, details, and price point - 11 pieces I’d buy myself. I’m also sharing the exact search term (and brand!) to find my holy grail denim so you can search on your own.

Let’s get into it!

No 1. Vintage USN Dungarees, Sz 29, $249