I met my friend Sophie (the first model I ever cast for Buck Mason and a forever muse) for coffee. She asked me what was next. I told her I had no idea. I just wanted to travel.

We sat on a bench at Place des Vosges for the next hour while she built me a Google Map titled “Tess’s New Life.” She pinned all of her favorite places across Europe. It was the first map I had ever saved.

One of the pins was Ostuni. I told her I was thinking of going to Puglia and renting a car but was nervous driving. She convinced me to go and rent the car. And so that night, I booked a flight to Bari for the next day.

I drove up and down the heel of Italy with no real plan. I felt the joy of exploring and uncovering- that’s the beauty of being a type B traveler- your trip is filled with surprises that too much googling and researching absolutely destroys. That trip refueled my soul.

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I went back to LA for a month of work, and then left again- this time for Portugal. I walked from Porto to Santiago with nothing more than a backpack. Went to London for my birthday in August. And headed back to Italy to go to beaches in Tropea.

Inspired by an epic day of vintage shopping in Portobello, I sat on the beach googling best flea markets in the world.

After a little digging, I came across Arezzo- a flea market that I’d never heard of happening the following weekend in a small town in Tuscany. And so, instead of going back to Rome to fly home to LA, I went to Rome and rented a car.

That is the story behind my first road trip through Tuscany and the story behind my first visit to what might be the greatest antique market in the world, the Arezzo Antique Market, a destination worth the trip alone.

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Every first Saturday and Sunday of the month, the small medieval town of Arezzo, is blanketed by antiques from dealers who trek from every corner of Italy to set up shop.

Here you will find an unbelievable blend of art, antiques, jewelry, books, objects, and vintage. Renaissance oil paintings next to mid century Italian chandeliers and fur from the 20s. It is a feast for lovers of beauty and collectors of any kind.

I’ve visited in September and November. I was told by a local that September is the best month to go. It’s also when the Giostra del Saracino takes over the grand plaza and is an epic celebration in town. Avoid December when the fair turns to vendors selling Christmas chotskies. Market dates are here.

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Plan for two days. The market is gigantic and weaves through every street in the city. Take your time. People watch. Have a coffee. Have a beer and a really good Tuscan dinner.

The first trip I stayed for only one day. The second time I went I knew better and stayed at an airbnb in town that was perfect for a midday treasure unloading.

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And the last tip is to pack an extra bag. I came home with antique textiles, jewelry, ceramics, and vintage dresses and kicking myself for not coming home with more. But there’s always next trip!

Before I leave you, I went hunting on ebay and etsy to find a few pieces that reminded me of the things you might stumble upon if you are so lucky to make it to Arezzo and hope they lead you down some inspiring little rabbit holes.

No 1. Vintage Italian Navy Silk Blazer, $76, No 2. Vintage Balenciaga Cargo Pants, $205, No 3. Vintage Italian Silk Dress, $288, No 4. Vintage Beaded Bag, $76, No 5. Vintage Silk Ribbon Clutch, $38, No 6. Vintage Victorian Locket, $146, No 7. Vintage Jaeger Ruffle Blouse, $112, No 8. Vintage Levis, $125, No 9. Vintage Silk Dress, $288, No 10. Cord Sandals, $139

Plan the trip. Rent the car. Head to Arezzo.

x Tess

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P.S. I’ve been making a bunch of purchases for some styling projects I’ve been working on and saving anything good I come across on my shopmy. This dress and this dress is beyond…

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P.S.S. Don’t forget to share this post with your travel buddy. This would be a dream girls trip.

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Did my luggage fit in said convertible? No. Did I have to take the roof down in the parking garage and ask the two guys working there to lift it up over the side of the car and wedge it in the back seat just to make it work? Yes.

And so that is where my journey from Rome to Arezzo began.

I’ve now roadtripped through Tuscany twice- both times with the final destination of visiting what might be the greatest flea market on the planet- the Arezzo Antique Fair. A sprawling market that takes over the entire town filled with antiques, artwork, vintage, and jewelry. It’s a feast for lovers of beauty and a worthy final destination worth the trip through Tuscany.

Today I’m sharing ten tips for road tripping through Tuscany—how to get there, where to stop, and what not to miss.

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On my most recent trip to Florence, I spent a couple of days getting lost in the city, bouncing from one neighborhood to the next. I think I visited just about every vintage shop you could see in Florence. My biggest take away is you only need a day to see the very best shops. So I’m writing this letter to my future self and to all my friends heading to Pitti Uomo this week on where to go vintage shopping in Florence if you only have a day including where to start with a good cup of coffee and where to end with a fabulous glass of wine.

Let’s go!

A One Day Guide to Vintage Shopping in Florence:

Where to begin

You’re going to start you day with coffee at Cibero. The outdoor cafe seating is a great place for morning people watching and a perfect place to start the day with a great cup of coffee and some light bites.

Mercato delle Pulci

The first stop of the day is right around the corner- Mercato delle Pulci. A small flea market that has been in operations since the 19th century. Here you will find to rows of small stalls brimming with curated antiques, artwork, and vintage. It’s impossible to leave this market empty handed.

My two favorite stalls are Vintage del Buttero and one without a name but impossible to miss- a stall filled with antique linens and antique Italian cotton dresses, bloomers, and shirts.

I left with a small bundle of pieces I plan to wear this summer including a couple ditsy cotton dresses and this little pink rayon top with tightly stacked buttons (I’m a sucker for a tight stack).

Cafe Gilli

Next we are heading cross town, thankfully it’s a small town, so it’s only a 20 minute walk. Along the way there will be unbelievable building and narrow little alley ways that will have you dreaming of what life would be like if you actually lived here.

You will likely need another espresso before heading to the next few shops. Head to Cafe Gilli, Florence’s oldest cafe that has been in operation since 1733. The interior is unbelievable with a gigantic wrap around wooden bar that’s been there since it’s beginning. The baristas make your drink in a suit.

Hunter Vintage

Now that you are caffeinated, head to Hunter Vintage. Hunter vintage has a great mix of old European military pieces, European workwear, and really great outerwear. This place is wonderfully curated and the shop itself feels like a hidden gem stuck in time.

Tartan Vintage

Right around the corner is Tartan Vintage. Unfortunately, it was closed for renovations when I was visiting but went on my first trip to Florence. This place is incredible. It’s filled to the brim with gorgeous menswear tailoring, blazers, and outerwear. There’s also an incredible selection of vintage leather bags, boots, and belts. This place is a must visit.

From here, cross the Ponte alla Carraia into the Oltrarno neighborhood- which is also where I stayed and highly recommend. It’s home of Florence’s artisans and some of the best vintage shopping in the city.

Recollection by Albrici

Your first stop in Oltrano is Recollection by Albrici- this is the most beautiful shop of the day so take your time. Here you will find everything from silk dresses, from the 30’s, party dresses from the 60s, and vintage designer pieces from the 70s. Recollection is absolutely glamorous and curated to perfection.

Momo Vintage

Just a couple doors down is Momo Vintage. This place feels like the Florentine version of Stella Dallas- a great mix of true vintage outerwear, tees, sweats, and European work wear and military pieces. It’s hard to leave empty handed here. I left with this perfect little croc bag.

PX Military

On the same street is PX Military- a mecca for vintage military lovers. The curation is an incredible mix of vintage US Military and vintage European military. One of my favorite wool military jackets came from here.

Piazza Santo Spirito

It’s time to take a pause, head around the corner to Piazza Santo Spirito. This Piazza is lined with sweet little cafes. I stopped at Pop Cafe because it had a table in the sun. The gorgonzola sandwich was delicious.

Celeste Vintage

Next head to Celeste Vintage. This is a designer vintage store and one of the shops I was taking the most notes from to write the 5 Italian Brands You Should Know article. They had a selection of very tempting leather jackets and outerwear and decent prices.

C’est Chic Vintage

The last stop of the day is C’est Chic Vintage and a fantastic way to end the day. Walking through the door feels like stepping foot into a little jewel box. Every square inch is layered with vintage clothes, bags, and baubles.. The curation is eclectic and extremely chic.

The owner is a fashion veteran who quit her full time job to open her own vintage shop which is why the curation feels so elevated. She will bring you pieces to your dressing room that she thinks you’d like which feels like a luxurious bonus. Of course I left with a bagful.

End the Day

Now that you’ve wrapped the day head to Babae for a cheeky glass of wine- find a table outside, or head to the window for a wine to go.

While your at it head to Il Santino, a little wine bar with people spilling into the street before dinner next door at Il Santo Bevitore where the ambiance is immaculate (make a reservation).

There are so many incredible vintage and antique shops in Florence but these are my absolute most favorite. If your trip lands on the second Sunday of the month be sure to visit the Santo Spirito Flea Market- many of the vendors I loved in Arezzo also have stalls at the Sant Spirito flea. My tips to the Arezzo Flea Market (quite possibly the dreamiest flea market I’ve ever visited) are coming soon so follow along if you aren’t already.

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A Map of Everything

A google map of everything mentioned in this article is linked here. Feel free to share it with your travel buddy.

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Florence is a must add to any Euro trip itinerary this summer. Hope this helps.

x

Tess

Recommended Reading:

P.S. Don’t forget to stop for a couple of film strips at a Fotoautomatica booth you will surely stumble upon on your day of shopping!

Going to flea markets and vintage stores in different cities opens my eyes to worlds of vintage, art, design, and antiques I never would have known existed. As a designer and lover of beauty a trip like this feeds my soul and leaves me endlessly inspired.

And because what’s mine is yours, I’m sharing all you need to know for your next trip to Rome. The best flea market in Rome with 5 tips to navigate it like a pro and my favorite vintage shops I stumbled upon on my hunt. Let’s get into it!

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The Porto Portese Flea Market

The Porto Portese Flea Market is Rome’s biggest and longest running flea market that’s been happening every Sunday since 1945. This place is packed with incredible vintage, antiques, and treasures if you know where to look. Here are 5 tips to navigate the Porto Portese flea Market like a pro.

Tip No 1. Bring a bag and bring some euros. There is not a credit card reader in sight at this flea market! All my tips I shared about mastering the Rose Bowl flea apply to this flea market too.

Tip No 2. Arrive early. The crowds start pouring in around 10am and the place is packed by 12pm. I arrived by 8am. Many vendors were just setting up but I still wish I got there earlier. Next time I’m going to shoot for 7am.

Tip No 3. Go straight to the good stuff. Avoid the main entrance. This is where the more modern, junky stuff lives. Skip all that. This is where I'd begin.

Tip No 4. Walk up and down Via Ippolita Nievo. Via Ippolita Nievo feels like the soul and center of the market. This is where all the real treasures live. You can find anything from vintage silk dresses, antique cotton skirts, vintage fur, antique jewelry, vintage Italian linens, ceramics, centuries old artwork, objects, and antiques.

Tip No 5. Make a day of it! After Via Ippolita the market shoots off into many little side streets. I spent the entire morning and most of the afternoon exploring the winding market. This flea market is absolutely sprawling. You really could (and should) make a whole day of it.

Porto Portese is a must visit the next time you’re in Rome. Make sure your travel dates line up with a Sunday!

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Best Vintage Shops in Rome

After a successful day at the flea I spent the next day bouncing around Rome searching for vintage shops. Most of the shops I visited were in Monti and Ponte. Both great neighborhoods for wandering and exploring. Here were some of my favorites.

No 1. Ciao Vintage

In the Ponte neighborhood I stumbled across Ciao Vintage. A vintage store that has been opened since the 50s. They started by selling antique furniture and now its exclusively designer vintage.

I was immediately enamored by the space- crystal chandeliers lining the ceiling, long dresses floating over renaissance paintings. This place is everything you’d hope for from a vintage shop in Rome.

No 2. Piccioni Fabio

Piccioni Fabio is a literal jewel box of a store hidden on an ivy lined street in Monti. A gorgeous stop for vintage costume jewelry that hangs from every corner of the store.

No 3. Cavalli e Nastri

Cavalli e Nastri in Monti was on my list to visit but was sadly closed. So many shops in Rome had odd hours of operation and odd days closed so double check before you plan your day! But this window tells me everything I need to know- chic, designer vintage. I will be back.

No 4. Argentina Jewels

Ok, this is not vintage but when I saw these old roman inspired glass and gold jewels in the widow I had to check it out. Argentina Jewels is owned by an incredible woman, who designed and made everything in the store. She doesn’t sell anything online. You can only buy her pieces in her shop in Monti. Her pieces were beautiful.

Those are the shops I would prioritize if you are tight on time because they feel unique to the city. Others I visited:

No 5. Humana Vintage, Monti- this shop I actually liked a lot. They had fabulous vintage wool coats, blazers, fur, casual clothes, dressy clothes all at very good prices. It just requires a little bit of a dig and editing eye.

No 6. Cinzia Vintage, Ponte- I liked this shop a lot too. Eclectic, magpie, retro, a little bit of everything. More of a digger.

No 7. Pfeibo, Monti- The Stella Dallas of Rome. They had great denim, workwear, vintage military, vintage leather. Easy to shop.

No 8. King Size Vintage, Monti - Casual American style, tees, sweats, jerseys, y2k.

No 9. La Vesti di Messalina, Monti - Tiny, hole in the wall shop. Similar in style to King Size.

No 10. Mercantile Vintage, Ponte - Classic “American” vintage- tees, sweats, jeans, etc

Anything to add to the list?? Leave it in the comments!

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No inspiration trip is complete without a little bit of art. I decided to keep this letter purely about vintage so I updated my last letter to include my favorite 3 museums I visited When In Rome including the absolutely breath taking Palazzo Altemps. Check it out!

I made a google maps of everything listed here for easy reference!

Feed your soul! Book a ticket! Leave inspired! You will not be disappointed.

x Tess

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I knew I had to come back. This time I gave myself a little more time. I had more time to explore, to wander, and to get lost. This guide is everything I discovered along the way. Think of it more of a visual diary than anything else. Part I is where to stay and where to eat. Part II is where to find the best vintage and things worth seeing.

Where to Stay

Built in the 16th century as a home for Roman nobility, Palazzo Talia offers the rare opportunity to live as the Romans once lived. Original frescoes stretch across the lounge ceiling, century-old tiles in pristine condition line the floors, and sculptural details throughout serve as reminders of the building’s storied past.

The hotel’s water is sourced from the ancient Aqua Virgo aqueduct. The same 4,000 year old water source that feeds the Trevi Fountain just steps away. Those very waters also fill the hotel’s drop dead gorgeous wellness pool, so don’t forget to pack a bathing suit (I did, tragically).

Designed by film director, Luca Guadagnino (Call Me By Your Name), every square inch of the hotel feels cinematic-even the outdoor lift. The mirrored doors slide open to reveal a lapis blue sofa and floor to ceiling windows before floating you down to the palm filled courtyard for your morning coffee.

Situated in the center of Rome’s historic district, the heart of the city, Palazzo Talia is the perfect launchpad for a day of exploring and easy walking distance to some of my favorite neighborhoods in Rome- Monti, Ponte, and Traverse.

But be warned, this place is so warm and inviting you’ll have a hard time convincing yourself to leave. I couldn’t have dreamed of a more beautiful stay.

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What to See

As a designer and lover of beauty, Rome feels like a playground. There are so many incredible museums the options are endless. Here are a few that I visited and absolutely loved.

No 1. Palazzo Altemps

It’s almost impossible to describe the beauty of Palazzo Altemps. It’s not just the incredible ancient Roman sculptures that stand heroically in unadorned rooms but it’s also the architectural bones of this place that is absolutely breath taking. A must, must visit.

No 2. Camerette di Sant’Ignazio di Loyola

Andrea Pozzo was commissioned in 1685 by St.Loyola to paint a fresco in his home in the heart of Rome. Pozzo painted the room in his famous trompe l’oleil style. When you are in this room it feels like the angels could reach out and touch you at any moment. It is an unbelievable space (and free!).

No 3. Musei Capitolini

I visited Musei Capitolini right before closing one night. It is the worlds oldest public museum located on the very top of Capitoline Hill. This museum is grand and filled with incredible sculptures and artwork. There a great view of Rome from the second story balcony too (especially at night).

Where to Eat and Drink

This is a list of incredible places I was to lucky to stumble upon. What drew me to most places was the atmosphere which I rate as highly as the meal itself. I like to go to places situated on good corners of cozy streets where I see neighbors greeting each other for a glass of wine. That’s my cue.

Scroll to the end for a google maps link to everything mentioned here!

No 1. La Bodega La Cafe, Monti

I could have sat here for hours. I had a coffee here before an afternoon of vintage shopping in Monti. Situated on the idyllic Piazza Madonna dei Monti this cafe is central to the best shops in Monti and a great place for some early morning people watching.

No 2. Ai Tre Scalini, Monti

After you’ve gotten some vintage shopping under your belt pause for a midday glass of wine and a snack under a veil of ivy in the heart of Monti. Ai Tre Scalini has been pouring wine in Monti since the 1800s. The wine list is extensive and the ambiance is incredible.

No 3. Osteria di Ponte, Ponte

I spotted this restaurant the night before and it was packed so when I saw an open spot for lunch I snagged it immediately. The cacio e pepe here was divine.

No 4. Coronari Bistrot, Ponte

This cafe was situated on the Piazza dei Coronari on a lovely corner of the Ponte neighborhood. I paused here for a quick drink and some excellent people watching. Across the way from Coronari Bistrot is Locando Coranari, a restaurant I visited that last time I was in Rome and loved.

No 5. Enoteca Cuverie, Traverse

After opting out of a wildly long line at da Enzo in Traverse, I stumbled upon a tiny, charming candlelit wine bar, Enteca Cuverie. The vibe was perfection, the vegetarian lasagna was gone in seconds, and the dry red went fast.

No 6. Mariuccia, Parioli

This came highly recommended by the sweet bar tender at Palazzo Talia. There was a bit of a que upon arrival but only locals which felt like a good sign. Unsure if I ever had pizza with a fluffier crust. This pizzeria was great and the staff was really sweet. Dar Poeta in Traverse was another pizza pit stop I made on the trip. Best white pizza I’ve ever had.

No 7. Antica Trattoria Angelino, Centro Storico

Antica Trattoria Angelino, the oldest trattoria in Rome founded in 1645 (!), ended up being the best service I had my entire trip. When I asked for a taste of a dry red the server brought me a full glass instead. There was a bit of a language barrier so I just accepted it even though it wasn’t quite what I wanted. A few minutes later, he must have sensed my hesitation because he quietly whisked it away and returned with a completely different glass. It was perfect. He kept topping me off without asking and at the end of the meal he dropped an unexpected tiramisu on the table. The food was delicious, the people watching on Piazza Margana was fabulous and the service was 10/10.

No 8. Giolittti, Centro Storico

I stumbled past Giolitti after dinner one night. I saw the original woodwork and original interior and knew I had to stop. Giolitti has been serving gelato since the 1800s. The interior was magnificent. The staff all wore vest and ties. The gelato was delicious. This place was absolutely charming.

No 9. Il Bar della Musa, Centro Storico

Lastly, the bar at Palazzo Talia, Il Bar della Musa, is not to be missed and a perfect place to end a well spent day.

Mirrored tiled walls reflect the original frescos that dance along the ceilings. The space is warm, cozy, and utterly enchanting.

The cocktails are mixed to perfection and served with homemade taralli (easily the best taralli I’ve ever had).

Walking back to my room at night felt like a dream. Its so rare for a space to feel both deeply luxurious and deeply lived-in. Palazzo Talia has both in abundance.

Rome is a city brimming with history and overflowing with soul. There’s a depth and a richness that you feel immediately upon arrival and exactly why I love this city so much. It feels like the kind of place you can visit a hundred times and never have the same experience twice. This trip only scratched the surface. I will be back again. If you have any recs please add them in the comments!

A list of everything in this article plus cute spots I bookmarked for next time are all saved on this google maps link here! Save em! Share em!

Subscribe and follow along for Part 2 where I will share the best vintage in Rome and things worth seeing! I will also be releasing a two part vintage guide for Tuscany and Florence so stay tuned!

x Tess

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P.S. If you’re new here and liked this guide, check out my 2 part guide to Mexico City — Part 1 + Part 2. I also did one about the best vintage in NYC!

P.P.S. Working on the next vintage edit this week! What are you guys hunting for??

The Markets

The very first thing I did after landing in Mexico City after taking a red eye was secure coffee. The very next thing I did was head directly to the nearest flea market.

In my books, flea markets will always be the greatest place to uncover real vintage and antiques while traveling— Mexico City was no exception. The Jardin Dr. Ignacio Chavez Flea Market was an absolute treasure chest of artwork, photographs, ceramics, books, and antiques that wrapped around an entire city block. Heaven.

The pieces here felt like pieces you could only find in Mexico City and that’s my benchmark for a good flea. I left with a few small treasures. If I wasn’t sleep deprived I probably could have left with enough stuff to fill an entire suitcase.

Jardin Dr. Ignacio Chavez Flea Market is open on Saturdays and Sundays from 9am to 4pm. A very easy walk from Roma Norte. Bring cash.

La Lagunilla Flea Market—I didn’t get a chance to visit this one but I have on good authority it’s worth a visit. It’s a lot bigger and has a little bit of everything. Only open on Sundays.

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The Shops

My absolute favorite way to get to know a city is on foot. I like to pick a neighborhood and just roam. Roma Norte, Condesa, and Juarez where fabulous neighborhoods to just get lost in. This is also how I stumbled across some really great shops.

Perla Valtierra, Juarez— this ceramics shop is situated in the gorgeous Foundacion Marso building. Every piece is handmade in Mexico.

Gala is Love, Juarez— in the same building as Perla Valtierra. Each piece of jewelry is made in Mexico City. Absolutely gorgeous carved stone and silver pieces.

Crudo Caan, Juarez — I loved this shop. So many beautiful simple silver pieces, beaded necklaces, gorgeous leather bags, and beautiful clothes. I wished I paused longer to try some things on. Still thinking about this insane silver flower belt.

Casa Tigre Blanco, Roma Norte- probably my most favorite of all the shops. Tiny and filled with true Mexican vintage and gorgeously crafted modern pieces. It felt like the kind of place you’d only find in Mexico City.

Casa Bosques, Roma Norte- I’m a sucker for a good art book store. They carried a lot of art books I’d never seen before including The Diary of Frida Kahlo.

Fueguia, Roma Norte- insanely gorgeous perfumery that’s been around since 1833. The scents were phenomenal. Right next to Casa Bosques.

Erre Vintage, Roma Norte - an extremely well curated true vintage store—mostly old Americana—all the stuff I love. They just so happened to open a second store in Echo Park last week!

Mutuo, Condesa- the hero here were the shoes designed and made in Mexico.

Nin Studio, Juarez- a very cool Mexican brand that works a lot with pleats, color, prints, and textures—which if you know me, is not exactly my style, but I can still appreciate it.

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Things To See

Museo Anahuacalli

Diego Riviera resurrected this museum in the 40’s to house his extensive collection of Pre-Hispanic artifacts. Diego consulted with Frank Lloyd Wright on the design of the building which has to be one of the most incredible spaces I’ve ever set foot in, museum or otherwise. Any images of the interior doesn’t do it justice. Spend time exploring the perimeter of the property, which is just as special.

Casa Azul

I’ve always loved seeing photographs of artists in their studios and having the opportunity to step into Frida Kahlo’s studio, one of my favorite artists, felt sacred. Her desk, left exactly as she’d arranged it, felt like a real glimpse into her life. The mirror she used to paint her self-portraits is still propped in place and catching my own reflection in it felt surreal. On the property there is an exhibit devoted entirely to her clothing, which naturally, I loved. My only regret was not carving out the time to wander through Coyoacán, the neighborhood she called home.

Louis Barragan

I fumbled a reservation to see the Louis Barragan House along with Casa Giraldi. All tours were sold out. Book ahead! After the Barragan houses take a walk through the Chapultepec— it is an unbelievably beautiful park. Bring a book.

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Neighborhoods to get lost in:

I love nothing more than wandering a neighborhood without an agenda. Sitting at a café with a book, people-watching, and soaking in the city is half the joy of traveling. Roma Norte and Condesa were perfect for that.

Roma Norte-I covered this neighborhood in Part 1— this neighborhood is lively and brimming with bars, restaurants, cafes, and shops that line every street. Great for wandering, people watching, and maybe best of all- dog watching.

Condesa- The light in Mexico City is unreal, especially in Condesa. The entire neighborhood is draped under a gorgeous canopy of trees which throws a soft dappled light across the entire neighborhood. Walk the camellón around Avenida Amsterdam- you’ll bump into cute shops and cafes on every corner. If Roma Norte feels more like Brooklyn, Condesa feels more like the West Village.

Mexico City is one of those places that you could visit ten times, never have the same experience twice, and still have things on your list for next time. It’s a city unlike anywhere I’ve visited. I truly cannot wait to go back. Share this post with your travel partner. Consider this your sign to book a ticket.

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My google maps for everything mentioned in this post is linked here. Save ‘em! If you have any recs for vintage, shopping, and things to see leave them in the comments!

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Know before you go: Sundays- most restaurants and shops are closed by 7pm. Rainy Season- June through September. Bring an umbrella. Ubers are an easy and a cheap way to get around quickly. Cash is king- whether you head to a market or stop for a street taco you’re going to need cash.

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Now go book a ticket. You won’t regret it.

x Tess

The clock struck 12:01am on August 16th and it was officially my birthday. I was on a red eye to Mexico city—a last minute trip I booked just a few days prior to mark the occasion.

I arrived in Roma Norte and was immediately taken—the neighborhood was lined with gorgeous old stone buildings on streets cloaked with trees that felt like they’ve been there forever. My apartment was situated on quite possibly the most gorgeous corner of them all.

The best part about not planning the trip ahead of time is it makes you feel like you’re really discovering the city, uncovering treasures that haven’t been spoiled by seeing it ahead of time with endless research. I didn’t know what I was getting myself into but immediately knew I made the right decision upon arrival.

What unfolded over the next few days was a trip strung together by chance and curiosity—meals without reservations, cafe’s stumbled upon, and vintage treasures that made the whole trip worthwhile on their own.

I’ve broken this guide into two parts since there’s so much I want to share. Part I covers where I stayed and where I ate + drank. Part II will dive into what I did, where I explored, shops worth visiting, and most importantly, the vintage I uncovered.

Subscribe to follow along and if you’re excited about what I’m sharing, consider upgrading to paid for full access to the archives and all future posts.

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*Warning, this post is long (mostly pictures!) but that means it will be cut off in your email so go to the substack app to see the full post!*

Where I Stayed:

Roma Norte is one of those neighborhoods that instantly make you feel at home-gorgeous old buildings, tree lined streets, endless restaurants, and shops tucked around every corner. It was the perfect place to call home for a few days of exploring Mexico City.

The apartment I stayed in was part of a stunning neo-classical mansion built in 1917 by Mexico City architect Gustavo Penasco. A stay I’d highly recommend- well situated, cozy, and full of personality.

The door, nestled in an envelope of plants, opened to reveal gorgeous bones- high vaulted wood ceilings speckled with skylights, a sweet kitchen tucked under the stairs, and a peek of the garden that lined the second story.

Staying at a place like this always sparks a bit of daydreaming—imagining what life might look like if I actually lived here. After just a few nights, I could picture it.

For future visits to Mexico City I’d definitely stay in Roma Norte again. The other neighborhood I’d look into staying is Condesa- a little bit quieter and equally as beautiful. While exploring, I stumbled across a really sweet hotel, on a very charming corner of Amsterdam Ave that I bookmarked for next time.

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Where I ate + drank:

Before we get any further you should know I’m a vegetarian who values ambience as highly as the meal itself. I seek out places that feel warm, authentic, and woven into the local neighborhood.

Below is everywhere I went and loved in order of first coffee to last nightcap.

No. 1- Panderia Rosetta - Roma Norte

This was the closest coffee spot to my apartment and worth the hype. The space is absolutely gorgeous. Every detail was thoughtfully considered— sky high lime washed walls with a menu painted in terracotta cursive, pastries housed in antique glass cases, and big walnut bookcases filled with freshly baked bread topped with antique pottery. I started each morning with a guava roll, americano, and some people watching at the park around the corner.

No 2.- Odette- Condesa

Situated on an idyllic corner of Plaza Popocatepetl, Odette was the perfect place to take a rest after a morning exploring Condesa. Have a coffee and watch the bakers at work. I’m still absolutely haunted by not leaving with a to-go baguette.

No 3.- El Minutito - Colonia Juarez

I stumbled across Minutito on my way to check out Nin Studios. A sweet cafe that felt like a relic of the past brought back to life. A great place for a midday espresso or an early evening cocktail.

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No 4.- Loncheria Garcia- Condesa

This was an incredible pit stop for a late breakfast or early lunch. They served cheese with honey and herbs to start, followed up by my first ever mollete. It was absolutely decadent.

No 5.- Carnito Tacos- Roma Norte

These were my first tacos of the trip and they were absolutely divine- a southeast asian bent to the mexican staple. I had the eggplant laos tacos, the cauliflower pibil taco, and the corn ribs. The flavors were unbelievable.

No 6.- Maizajo- Condesa

I’ve never met a taco I didn’t like, and Maizajo was no exception. What sets this place apart are the tortillas—each diner is presented the raw red, yellow, and blue corn they use—gorgeous stalks that are then transformed into decadent tortillas, pressed and cooked right before your eyes in their open kitchen. Delicious.

No 7.- El Tigre Silencio- Roma Norte

Stopped here midday for a crisp glass of wine and sat on the gorgeous second story veranda. A great place for a small bite and a good glass of wine.

No 8.- Hugo Wine Bar- Condesa

I ducked in here to wait out the midday rain after checking out some shops nearby in Condesa. A very chic place to pause for a snack and a crisp glass of wine. The well dressed table across from me seemed to know everyone who walked past them which made for ideal people watching.

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No 9.- Meroma- Roma Norte

Meroma was one of the few restaurants open on a Sunday night. I sat at one of the sidewalk cafe tables situated outside the open concept restaurant. I adored how the bar flooded onto the sidewalk. I loved this spot— the small plates were fantastic, the ambiance felt cozy and casual— just perfect for a Sunday.

No 10.- Maximo- Roma Norte

Máximo is one of Mexico City’s newly anointed Michelin star restaurants, which meant, unsurprisingly, there wasn’t a single last minute reservation to be had. But being the kind of gal who doesn’t take no for an answer, I stopped by anyway and asked the hostess if they could squeeze me in. To my luck, there was a 9:30 slot. I pounced.

I was enamored by the beauty of the space more than anything. I loved how they managed to transform an industrial warehouse into a space that felt wildly warm and inviting, layered with details. Terracotta pots overflowing with white geraniums lined the center of the restaurant. A floor-to-ceiling hand-painted tapestry of rolling Mexican hills stretched across the white brick wall, adding warmth and story. Tapered candlesticks—at least two feet tall—stood on every table accentuating the soaring ceilings. The tableware was colorful and mismatched. The whole space felt effortless and tasteful without taking itself too seriously. It was a true feast for the eyes. Oh, and the food was good too.

No 11.- Rosetta- Roma Norte

The space was romantic and utterly chic, the service was phenomenal, and the food was absolutely delicious. There were so many incredible vegetarian small plates that exceeded all expectations including a beet tartare that I can’t stop thinking about. It was my favorite meal of the trip.

I later learned that the chef, Elena Reygadas, is one of the very few female Michelin Star chefs in the world. She also operates Lardo and Cafe Nin in Mexico City which are also on my list for next time. (I scored this reservation the same way I got Maximo’s reservation- a good reminder to always ask!)

No 12.- Bar Mauro- Roma Norte

I stumbled upon this easy to miss spot on my way to coffee one morning. The door swung open just as I passed, and with only a glimpse of the interior I knew I had to come back. As it turns out, Bar Mauro was just named one of North America’s 50 best bars.

The space was beautifully designed but what I loved most was the warm energy and inviting atmosphere. At one point the whole bar broke into “Feliz Cumpleaños” for one beaming guest as the bartenders poured small cups champagne for everyone to toast. It was the kind of place that could you could lose track of time. The perfect place to end a well-spent day.

Mexico City has to be the greatest food city I’ve visited to date. With endless street vendors, cafés, restaurants, and bars, I barely scratched the surface. I will absolutely be back again. If you have any recs to add to the list leave them in the comments!

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My google maps for everything mentioned in this post is linked here. Save em!

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Head to Pt II where I will share the neighborhoods I explored, the things I did, and the unbelievable vintage troves I uncovered!

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An overview for easy future reference:

No. 1- Panderia Rosetta - Roma Norte

No 2.- Odette- Condesa

No 3.- El Minutito - Colonia Juarez

No 4.- Loncheria Garcia- Condesa

No 5.- Carnito Tacos- Roma Norte

No 6.- Maizajo- Condesa

No 7.- El Tigre Silencio- Roma Norte

No 8.- Hugo Wine Bar- Condesa

No 9.- Meroma- Roma Norte

No 10.- Maximo- Roma Norte

No 11.- Rosetta- Roma Norte (also Lardo and Cafe Nin)

No 12.- Bar Mauro- Roma Norte

If you found this letter helpful or inspires you to also book a last minute ticket unplanned please like and share this post! It really helps.

And as always what’s mine is yours…

x Tess

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I was in New York for a single day of meetings when I decided to extend my trip and treat myself to a night at Nine Orchard- a place that holds extra meaning to me. For nine years, I lived around the corner, on Henry and Market, just a couple blocks from the old bank building while it underwent a decade-long renovation.

Every night after work, I’d walk one block out of my way home just to pass the gorgeous old building, its perimeter wrapped in construction fencing that hid nearly everything inside except for the gorgeous carved ceilings of the Swan Room that glowed above the the barricades.

I’m sharing this not only because I love the hotel, but because it served as the perfect launchpad for a day spent zig zagging to all my favorite vintage spots.

After a leisurely breakfast, a second coffee in hand, and a healthy dose of people watching, I headed to the most inspiring and aspirational shop on the list to get the juices flowing- Desert Vintage.

No. 1- Desert Vintage

You could easily miss this shop if you didn’t know it was there. When I lived in the neighborhood it used to be old hosiery shop with it’s shop windows lined with bras and underpants that had turned yellow with age. Now it’s not uncommon to see an old, canvas Hermes bag nonchalantly perched on an antique stool in the window.

When you first walk in it’s hard not to be immediately enamored with the space- brilliantly designed by Green River Projects- the same designers behind Bode’s Lower East Side Shop just around the corner. Their genius is making a space feel like it’s been there for 100 years with all the details you’d expect.

The shop is a curated blend of rare designer finds and true vintage of antiquity- all with a one clear and distinct vision of good taste. The founders of Desert Vintage have been spotted seated front row at The Row- hardly surprising once you’ve seen the kind of inspiration the design team must draw from this place.

I combed through every piece on the beautifully merchandised rails, pulling a few temptations along the way- Junya Watanabe pants and a cropped Alaïa jacket among them. Both beyond beautiful but not tempting enough to pull the trigger. I also noted they had the same military pants I found at the Rose Bowl not too long ago (and wrote about) which made me feel extra pleased with my score.

Feeling inspired, I made my way to see Tommy Dorr’s new Manhattan location I’ve been dying to check out since it opened and it just so happened to be conveniently situated just around the corner from Desert Vintage.

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No. 2- Mothfood

Tommy Dorr’s New York shop, Mothfood, is perched on the second floor of unassuming building on the corner of Allen and Canal. To visit the shop you must make an appointment- I dm’d Tommy on his instagram that morning and he invited me to come on up.

Upon arrival, the old elevator doors shimmied open to reveal a bright, airy sanctuary- sunlight spilling through a long row of windows highlighting the gorgeous sitting area and antique objects artfully arranged along the walls. It felt like an unspoken invitation to really to your time to linger and explore.

Beyond the room of gorgeously curated racks of true vintage workwear, military, knits, and tees is an entire back space filled with well organized shirts, jackets, tailoring, sweaters, and outerwear- all open to shop.

I tried on a bunch of stuff- like these vintage Austrailian military fatigues that I immediately fell in love with.

And this 1950s shrunken hoody- the fit, color, and bronzey sunfade felt like a dream.

I left with the pants but still regret not grabbing the hoody. On my way out, I noticed the piles of treasures other customers had claimed and couldn’t shake the feeling I was missing out. Luckily, Tommy- who also has a shop in LA- seems to have a never ending reservoir of great vintage, which he regularly shares through his Instagram story sales- but don’t sleep on them, things move fast.

After a successful Mothfood visit I meandered up Orchard Street until I hit Delancey where I hopped into an Uber and fast tracked myself to Green Point for the next stop on the list- Mirth Vintage.

No. 3- Mirth Vintage

I love Mirth for a lot of reasons. The curation is very focused-timeless, chic pieces in good materials made mostly up of 90’s brands you wouldn’t even think to look up on eBay- old Anne Klein, Jones of New York, and Banana Republic. It also happens to be the most affordable shop of my list of favorites, which makes it hard not to leave with something.

If vintage shopping usually feels overwhelming, this place will change your mind. Every rack is gorgeously merchandised and arranged in a thoughtful, seasonally appropriate color palette, making it not just easier to shop, but infinitely more inspiring.

I filled my arms up with items to try on and headed to the dressing room. I tried on a lot of maybes looking for that spark I always look for when shopping.

The moment I tried on these pants, I felt the spark — an immediate yes. Lately, I’ve been reaching more and more for trousers, and the chocolate brown feels so chic for the transitional season ahead. The bonus- they came with the matching suit jacket.

I felt so wildly chic in these trousers I wore them out of the store and darted to my next stop on the itinerary- Sorbara’s in Williamsburg.

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No. 4- Sorbara’s

Sorbara’s is the latest venture from vintage veteran, Kathleen Sorbara, who previously ran Chickee’s Vintage in two separate locations—one for menswear and one for womenswear. This new space brings both worlds together under one big, impossibly chic roof.

Expansive and beautifully curated, the space feels closest to my own style- vintage designer alongside old military pieces, perfectly worn-in tees, and stacks of beaten up Levi’s, all artfully arranged together.

The accessories wall is lined with 90s prada heels, swoon worthy art books, and a Margiela era Hermes beret I never knew I needed.

I tried on a handful of pieces, but the one that really tempted me was this easy black Lanvin dress that I probably should have bought. It was stitched in four panels, each seam hiding chic little cutouts- nearly invisible at first glance unless you knew where to look.

I spent way too long in the mirror and finally FaceTimed my sister- she said no. I disagreed, but took it as a sign to move on to my next stop in Dumbo- Front Street General.

There’s no great subway ride or uber trip to get from Williamsburg to Dumbo. Instead I hopped on the East River Ferry- not only is it the most efficient way to get from Williamsburg to Dumbo but also the most fun way.

No 5. - Front General Store

Front General is, without question, my favorite vintage shop in New York. I almost always leave with something and many of my all-time favorite pieces have come from here. Which is why I was devastated to arrive just after closing.

These photos are from my last visit. The shop is filled to the brim with gorgeous denim, beautiful outerwear, vintage and deadstock military, racks of trench coats (Ralph Lauren and Burberry galore), ’60s leather jackets, and even an entire section of Issey Miyake Pleats Please. True vintage with a timeless, very approachable edit- there really is something for everyone here.

They also offer a gorgeous collection of sweaters, tees, socks, and bandanas- designed in house and made in Japan- along with an entire section of beautifully curated homeware and stationery.

They have an additional floor up stairs called FGS Outpost that is not to be missed- filled with lots and lots of denim and a much needed continuation of the wildly good ground floor.

I came so close to hitting all five of my favorite vintage shops in New York in one day. If I’d rearranged my route (and skipped a few unplanned detours), I probably could have made it to Front General and maybe even Stella Dallas Living and 10 Ft Single but I wanted to end the day in my old stomping grounds of Brooklyn Heights, the neighborhood I called home before moving to Los Angeles.

After a walk along the promenade, I wrapped the day with dinner at Ingas which embodies everything I love in a restaurant- a warm, well designed space, with good lighting, and great food. I headed back to Nine Orchard for a night cap at The Swan Room before calling it a night. The perfect ending to a well spent day.

If you only have one day in New York these are my five non-negotiable must visit shops:

1. Desert Vintage - 34 Orchard Street, Lower East Side

2. Mothfood - 17 Allen Street, Lower East Side

3. Mirth - 606 Manhattan Ave, Greenpoint

4. Sorbara’s- 326 Wythe Ave, Williamsburg

5. Front Street General - 143 Front Street, Dumbo

These shops are curated by some of the most devoted and tasteful curators in the business which comes with a price tag. I say this because even If you are on a budget you’ll leave a day like this feeling inspired- discovering cool pieces that you can keep an eye out the next time you’re at the flea or maybe leave inspired with a good ebay search term or two.

I made a google maps of everything I mentioned in this post including some nearby bonus spots. Eventually, I will share an extended list of New York City vintage recommendations (so subscribe if you haven’t already!) but this list is a very solid place to start.

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Hope this is helpful! And I’m curious- what’s your favorite place to shop vintage in NYC?!

x Tess

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The two previous posts I mentioned in this post that are worth a revisiting are: The Long Game and What to wear when you want to wear nothing